Rome was founded in 753 BC. It will be 3000 years old soon, my husband mused the other night, as we trudged up one of the city’s many hills. (There are not seven, there are hundreds.) Three thousand years is not so long, only 30 times older than I am, he continued in the same vein. Born in Dresden in 1918, he has an expansive view of human time. He feels at home in the centuries.
He saw Rome for the first time in 1931 with his grade-school class from the fishing village of Camogli, south of Genoa. He was the only immigrant in his class. Sometimes he wore lederhosen. The local boys threw stones at him and his younger brother, until their father, a German expatriate novelist and premature refugee from Hitler, appealed good naturedly to the local mayor and the assaults ended. In Rome the class of 12-year-olds was taken for an audience with the Pope, who singled out my husband, the lone non-Catholic in the group, for special attention, perhaps because of his cherubic face.
I thought of all this while listening to four Muslim writers give their views on the problems facing Muslim minorities in the U.S. and Italy, at a literary get together organized by our State Department at the Center for American Studies in Rome on May 21. The American participants suffered from varying degrees of presentism, an obsession with the headlines: the war on terror, Islamophobia, Al Qaeda strategizing. The Italian Muslims, more at home in history, brought some spaciousness to the debate.
Algerian novelist Amara Lakhous is only 36, a survivor (although he would abjure that dramatic term) of Algeria’s 1990s dirty war between a corrupt autocracy and hysterical Islamist rebels. Dozens of intellectuals were murdered, while hundreds — thousands — emigrated. Lakhous came to Rome in 1995 to study anthropology and never left. He’s writing a doctoral thesis on the first generation of Arab Muslim immigrants in Italy. For a while after arriving, he supported himself as an interpreter and cultural mediator for Italy’s newest residents, immigrants from China and Latin America and North Africa and Bangladesh, who lived in a low-rent dormitory in the multicultural neighborhood of Piazza Vittorio.
Out of this experience he wrote a charming novel about cross-cultural misunderstandings, first in Arabic (How to be suckled by the wolf without getting bitten, Algiers 2003) and then, as a labor of love for his country of refuge, in Italian. This version, Clash of Civilizations over an elevator in Piazza Vittorio (Edizioni e/o 2006), became a best seller, and won two awards (the Flaiano, named for Fellini’s scriptwriter and the Sciascia, named for the late great Sicilian novelist). A film version is already in the works. Europa Editions, New York, will publish an English translation of the book in 2008.
In the knowing spirit of Italian social comedies of years gone by (Divorce Italian Style, anything starring Alberto Sordi) and with a nod to the Roman classic That Awful Mess on via Merulana, by Carlo Gadda, and the Arab language classic Season of Migration to the North, by Sudanese novelist Tayeb Salih, Lakhous gently spoofs Italian xenophobia. Suspected of all sorts of crimes by their Roman neighbors, his immigrant narrators are in fact lonely, vulnerable, homesick, and declasse individuals: an Iranian chef who hates pizza; a Peruvian Catholic home attendant whose boyfriends keep sending her to the abortionist; a highly articulate Algerian intellectual reduced, by memories of blood and trauma, to howling like the mythical Roman wolf.
Meanwhile, in the background, Romans, Neapolitans and Milanese badmouth each other in their mutually unintelligible dialects. Italy, an old land but a young nation, a country with its own long history of exile and immigration to foreign lands, is a work in progress. What does integration — that buzz word — mean for immigrants to a country whose identity is still in flux? Could the new immigrants and the born Italians define the country together, in unsuspected ways?
Lakhous is doing his best to make it happen. It was a great relief, at the CAS event, conceived by State Department as a kinder, gentler weapon in the war on terror, to hear him jump clear out of the debate on present dangers, and back into the first milennium A.D., when, as he pointed out, Arabic was the language of Sicily for two centuries. The great Sicilian writer Sciascia’s home town has an Arab name. Racalmuto means “dead village.” Arabic is deeply embedded in the island’s geography. Even after the Norman invasion of Sicily in 1061 (I later read) Muslim culture flourished under Christian protection. Will the 21st century with its killer hatreds, be more medieval than the Middle Ages? Or could history and precedent work in our favor?
Of course if you don’t know the history, it doesn’t help. Lakhous joked about the low standards the Italian media set for experts on Islam. As for journalist Oriana Fallaci‘s best selling tirades against the new Muslim invasion of Europe — by boats and babies — he noted, ambiguously, that the Muslim faith requires that the dead be remembered with clemency. Fallaci is gone, but her anti-Muslim screeds still circulate.
Dante may have consigned the prophet Mohamed to the depths of hell, as a sower of discord, but literary historians see a kinship between his epic stroll through the universe and the work of contemporary Muslim poets. At the CAS last week, Iraqi born scholar and novelist Younis Tawfik recommended Miguel Asin Palacios‘ study Islam and the Divine Comedy. Dante was Tawfik’s bridge to the west. He was a student in Mosul when he read passages from The Divine Comedy in Arabic and was seized with a longing to read the complete original. He left for Italy in 1979 and remained there. Twenty-five years on, as a professor of Arabic at the University of Genoa, a prize winning novelist, and director of the Italo-Arab Cultural Center Dar al Hikma, he finally obtained Italian citizenship. It took a special intervention on the part of then President Ciampi to make it happen, as an outraged Italian journalist informed the audience at the CAS. (Tawfik himself was too polite to complain.) “We need to change our laws,” she insisted, to make citizenship more accessible. Change is in the works apparently, under the current center-left government.
More about that another time.
–Suzanne Ruta